Buying a dishwasher is only part of the task, you still need to connect it and put it in the most convenient place. You can, of course, pay money and call a master, but the matter is not so complicated that you cannot handle it yourself. On the other hand, connecting a dishwasher requires at least minimal knowledge of electricity, as well as sewerage and plumbing. If you have at least some ideas about these areas, you can try to install a dishwasher with your own hands.
Procedure
If you decide to connect the dishwasher yourself, you must have a clear procedure. Then there will be no surprises. Even before starting the installation, it is necessary to ensure the presence of a separate power supply line that goes directly from the shield. Teeing and porting is not approved by manufacturers. And here the warranty obligations are not supported. The outlet must be separate, with a mandatory grounding working contact. If there is an outlet, the procedure for connecting the dishwasher is as follows:
- Connecting the drain hose to the sewer.
- Connecting the water supply (filling) hose to the water supply system.
- Plugging into an electrical outlet.
- Test run. If everything went well, install the unit in place.
If the dishwasher was purchased in the cold season, before connecting it to the network, it should stand indoors for some time. It can and should be unpacked, but it is undesirable to connect it to the network. Tests should be started after it warms up to room temperature and dries up the condensate that can form with a sudden change in temperature.
Connecting the dishwasher to electricity: parameters of the electrical line
A dishwasher can consume up to 2.5-3.0 kW of electricity during water heating. Therefore, a separate power supply line is required for its connection. Since water is used in the process, the equipment carries a potential threat, so there should be a circuit breaker on the line, which will cut off the power supply in the event of a short circuit. To ensure your own safety, you need to install a circuit breaker that will break the circuit during the insulation test. That is, it is possible to connect the dishwasher to electricity to a dedicated line on which a circuit breaker and circuit breaker or a circuit breaker that replaces them is installed.
Ratings of protective devices and cross-section of cable cores
The ratings of the circuit breaker and circuit breaker for connecting the dishwasher are selected depending on the current consumption, but in most cases there are two options:
- 16 A circuit breaker and 25 A circuit breaker with a leakage current of 10 mA. In this case, the cross-section of the cable cores should be 2.5 mm.
- The rating of the circuit breaker is 10 A, the RCD is 16 A (the leakage current is also 10 mA), the cross-section of the cable cores is 1.5 mm².
Both options are possible. The first one is taken with a solid margin of power, the wiring will work at minimum load, but such a line will cost more. The second option is less expensive financially, and it is also more than workable (the maximum permissible load is 4.1 kW, which is more than enough, because the average power consumption of dishwashers is 2.1-2.5 kW). But, when buying a cable, measure the cross section of the wires. Unfortunately, with the declared cross-section of 1.5 mm², it is possible to get to 1.2 mm² and even less, which is unacceptable in this situation.
Also according to the parameters of the machine:
- It is better to choose a two-pole one, so that in the event of an emergency, both the phase and zero are disconnected at once.
- For apartments and buildings with restored wiring, the capacity of the circuit breaker should be C (C10 or C16 is written on the case), for old wiring and air power it is better to take B (B10 or B16 depending on the selected option).
What outlet to put for the dishwasher
A few words about sockets. To connect powerful consumers, such as a dishwasher, power, and not ordinary, electrical installation products are recommended. In this case, you can expect that the outlet will not melt even after several years of operation.
Power sockets are chosen not for their appearance, but for the current they are designed for. For most models of dishwashers, the maximum current consumption will not be higher than 11 A, so you can take 10/16 A power sockets. In this case, the electrical connection of the dishwasher will be made according to all the rules, the manufacturer will have to maintain its own warranty obligations.
Connection to the sewage system
It is advisable to connect the drain of the dishwasher to the sewer. This can be done in any available way. If there is a separate outlet of the sewer pipe, the drain hose is lowered there, sealing the connection with a special silicone insert. When buying it, you need to know the diameter of the outlet, the diameter of the drain hose. The insert is simply inserted into the outlet socket, and the hose is inserted from the other side. No additional measures are required to seal the connection, as sealing occurs due to the elasticity of the material.
If there is no separate outlet, the dishwasher drain is discharged into the sink siphon. For this purpose, there are special siphons with side branches into which the drain hose of the dishwasher is inserted. Since these siphons are modern, the connection is also very simple: the hose is inserted and that’s it. For greater reliability, the joint can be additionally sealed with foam tape, but this is usually not done.
Connecting the dishwasher to the sewer should be done so that the hose sags a little in the form of the letter V. If there is such an overflow, it is less likely that sewage from the sewer will enter the dishwasher. The second option is more reliable, but it is possible if there is a sufficient supply of drain hose and there is free space. In this case, it is raised above the entrance to the siphon, fixing the loop with a special holder. Please note that the hose must be positioned so that there are no other loops or kinks. Water stagnates in all these places, which then begins to “smell” strongly. If the hose is too long, it can be shortened.
Sometimes the entrance to the sewer is further than the regular hose allows for connection. In this case, it is possible to extend the drain hose, but its length should not exceed the maximum allowable distance to the drain, which is indicated in the technical characteristics. And in general, it is better to choose a place to install the dishwasher so that the hose does not have to be extended. So the pump is guaranteed to work longer.
How to connect to the water supply
Any end point is suitable for connecting the dishwasher to the water supply – the lead to the faucet, faucet, etc. If there is no branch, you will have to cut the main line, insert a tee (or a fitting with a faucet), to which then connect the dishwasher hose.
When connecting the dishwasher to the water supply, a faucet is first installed on the created outlet, then a filter (at least with a coarse mechanical cleaning) and only after that the hose from the dishwasher is connected. A filter is highly desirable. It does not cost much, but it can save you from premature repairs. A faucet is also needed – to be able to turn off the water supply to the dishwasher if necessary, instead of turning off the water in the entire apartment or house.
All connections can be wrapped with foam tape. It is better to tighten the connection by hand, making good efforts. The key in this case is dangerous because it can be dragged. After the connection of the dishwasher to the water supply is completed, we open the faucet smoothly, supplying water. If the connections do not get wet, everything is fine, you can test start the machine.
Installing the dishwasher in place
The last stage of connecting the dishwasher is to install it in a permanent place. If the machine is standing alone, put it in the chosen place with the help of a level so that the machine stands flat. It is necessary to check both vertically and horizontally. There are height-adjustable legs for display. Controlling the position with a level, we adjust the position of the case with the help of these legs. This procedure must be carried out carefully, because the quality of washing and drying dishes depends on it. When the machine is crooked, the water jets do not go to the places where they should be, because of which the dishwasher washes the dishes worse. Another problem with the wrong position of the machine is that the water will not be completely removed, which will make it harder for the dishes to dry.
When installing a built-in dishwasher, it is important to position it correctly. If the cabinet was ordered when you have already chosen the model, it will be made for you according to the parameters of the case. They usually leave gaps of 5 mm on each side to allow the machine to be pushed in. When displaying it according to the level, it is raised so that its top rests on the tabletop. To install the dishwasher, it is raised to the required level with the help of adjustable legs. If the cabinet is too high, put chipboard on the bottom or under the legs, but there should be no gaps.
After the built-in typewriter is displayed in height and level, it can be fixed. In most cases, there are several holes on the sides and top of the case. The package also includes a pair of brackets. We attach the dishwasher to the side walls of the cabinet through the side holes. Then we screw the brackets on one side to the dishwasher body, on the other side to the countertop. You should not pay too much attention to the choice of fasteners. This fixing is more necessary for confidence, since the dishwasher without fixing stands and does not move anywhere.
Questions may arise when installing a dishwasher in a cabinet that is too wide. This happens if the unit was bought after the kitchen set was ordered. There are several options for solving the problem. The first is to screw the slats to the sides of the cabinet – in front and behind, and fix the dishwasher body to the slats. The second method is to make false side walls from laminated chipboard. The thickness of chipboard should be chosen so that the width of the opening is greater than the width of the machine by 10 mm or so. Screw the “secondary” side panels to the cabinet frame, and fasten the machine body to them. The second method is more expensive in terms of money, but in this case there is no gap in which garbage, dust, etc. accumulate.
This section provides rough guidelines. Exactly everything will be described in the instructions for the machine. There you will find pictures that clearly illustrate the process. Don’t be lazy, read it.