Few people deny the convenience of an electric kettle. Although the thing is inexpensive, it simplifies life. And when it breaks, a lot of problems immediately arise. The good news is that repairing an electric kettle is not a difficult task. In 80% of cases, everything can be eliminated independently and without special costs. Let’s consider how to repair an electric kettle with your own hands.

Electric kettle device

There are two types of electric kettles – separable, with a base and a separate “jug”, and non-separable. In the second case, the cord does not separate from the kettle. These models are somewhat cheaper and more reliable (there is no removable contact), but they are not so convenient to use – you have to carry a cord behind the kettle. Therefore, they usually choose an electric kettle with a separate stand, which is sometimes called a “base”.

The stand comes mainly in two forms. With a cylindrical pad in the center of the round stand and with a protruding connector on one of the edges of the oblong stands. The second type is now rare. Both types are problematic when they are made of bad plastic. The contact plates oxidize and begin to heat up, the plastic melts and deforms. This worsens the contact until the kettle stops heating altogether.

Round stands are more reliable in this respect.

What else can cause an electric kettle to break down? So every electrical part. This is the contact of the input group in the container itself, the heating element, the overheating protection system, the power button (also called the overheating sensor or thermal switch), the wires that connect it all, the contacts. It seems that the whole set of possible reasons for failure is simpler for models.

How to repair an electric kettle yourself

Repair of an electric kettle

An electric kettle is not such a complex electrical appliance that you cannot figure it out yourself. And even the simplest repair in the workshop will be comparable in cost to buying a new device. So, it makes sense to try to repair the kettle with your own hands.

It is worth saying right away that if the TEN (heating element) has burned out, it is better to buy a new kettle. The disk heating element cannot be replaced. If the heating element is open (spiral or twisted in some other way), it can theoretically be changed. They can be found on sale or found in repair shops. But in terms of price, the heater itself can be even more expensive than a new kettle.

So, unfortunately, if the heating element in the kettle has burned out, do not waste time and effort.

Checking the efficiency of the heating element

Therefore, when repairing an electric kettle, we first check the heating element. First, we disassemble the kettle. To do this, turn it upside down. There should be screws on the bottom that hold the plastic protective bottom. Unscrew them, remove the cover. The conclusions of TEN are opened. It is difficult to get confused. In addition to Ten’s contacts, there can only be a fuse here. By the way, if it’s there, it doesn’t hurt to check it either. We check it in resistance measurement mode. If a break or a short circuit is measured, we look for a replacement.

How to check the temperature in the kettle? Using the same tester, and also in resistance measurement mode. If the heating element has burned out, the multimeter will show a break (infinitely large resistance). If the heating element is intact, you can continue to search for a malfunction of the electric kettle. So, the kettle does not turn on for some other reason.

“Entire TEN” is if when measuring its resistance, the multimeter shows not a short circuit and not an infinitely large resistance, but numbers ranging from a few tens of Ohms to hundreds.

Everything depends on the power, the more power, the less resistance. Here are some values ​​of current consumption from power:

  Device power, kW 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0
Current consumption, A 2,3 4.5 6.8 9.1 11.4 13.6
Resistance, Ohm ≈ 95 49 32 24 19 16

The kettle does not turn on

If the electric kettle does not turn on, first of all, you should check whether the cord and the plug are connected to the outlet. Surprisingly, the cord and plug are one of the most common causes. The cord breaks in places that are often bent, the wires “bounce” in the plug.

Checking the cord of the electric kettle

So, we start repairing an electric kettle with the simplest things. First of all, we examine the plug and cord. The cord most often breaks near the plug or at the point of connection to the stand. In this case, the operation of the kettle will be unstable. We examine the cord. If there is no external damage, you can check the integrity with a multimeter. We put it in the “ringing” mode, short the plug contacts with a wire and check for a short circuit on the contacts of the stand.

To shorten is to connect with each other with the help of metal. If we talk about an electric plug, then as a result the plug terminals will be closed.

The easiest way to make a short circuit is to connect the contacts with a metal wire. If the wire is insulated, first you need to strip a few centimeters at the ends, and then wind the cleaned copper (you can use aluminum) on one and the other output of the plug. It turns out that the plug terminals are electrically connected by a wire. This is “to shorten”.

Next, we take the multimeter in the “ringing” mode, touch the central contact with one probe, and the circular one with the other. If the cord and plug are intact, you should hear a characteristic sound.

You can do without connecting the plug with a wire. It is enough to touch one contact on the fork with one probe, and with the other, alternately with the central contact and the circular one. The appearance of a signal indicates the serviceability of one wire of the cord. Similarly, we check the second contact on the plug.

The absence of a signal indicates a break in the cord – it must be changed. It is inexpensive.

How to check the connection of the cord to the stand

You can also check the quality of the contacts at the point of connecting the cord to the socket. If one of the probes is added to the center pin, it should “ring” with one of the pins through which the cord is connected. The cylindrical plate should then “ring” with the second contact. To be sure, you can hold the probes in the right position and “stir” the cord nicely. The contact should not be lost.

Checking the serviceability of the stand under voltage

You can do it differently. Turn on the stand in the outlet, put the multimeter in the voltage measurement mode, choosing a measurement limit of more than 250 volts. We touch the contacts on the stand with probes – central and circular. The multimeter should display the mains voltage.

If there is no voltage on the contacts of the stand or it is much lower than the mains voltage, then the cause of the malfunction is in the stand. This type of breakdown is very rare.

But when connecting to the network, you need to check very carefully. Do not touch the metal parts of the probes with your fingers, do not touch the stand and contacts. You are working under tension, and this is always dangerous.

Electric kettle button

The reason that the electric kettle does not turn on may be the on button. It is on the handle. To check it, you need to remove the protective plastic. It is usually held in place by one or two screws, which are usually located somewhere in the lower part. We unscrew all the screws we found, remove the plastic and examine the button.

Check the button

This button is also called a thermal switch or thermal fuse. She turns off the kettle while it boils. There is a bimetallic plate that changes shape when heated. Having increased, the plate presses the button and turns it off. Since a considerable current flows through the contacts of this device (up to 10 or more amperes), the contacts often burn or oxidize. Because of this, the device does not turn on at all or needs to be turned on again. But it happens that you have to hold the button until the kettle boils. If this is your case, then the reason is precisely in the button.

In most cases, such a button needs to be changed, but it will be difficult to find. So let’s try to repair it.

After pulling out the button, you need to ring it. We take the multimeter, press the button and measure the resistance by applying the probes to the two terminals. Must be zero. If a break or very high resistance is measured, it is a matter of contacts.

Repair of the electric kettle button

After detecting a malfunction of the button, you can try to repair it. The contacts are hidden under a plastic cap, and it must be removed. Often the cap slides to the side and can then be pulled up and removed. Sometimes there are plastic latches. In general, act carefully, remove the plastic part.

After seeing oxidized or burnt contacts, we clean the metal to a shine. This can be done with fine-grained sandpaper, a file or a metal nail file, but do not scratch the plates too much. They should be smooth. It is better to remove the oxide film with a strip of felt.

After this operation, we check the resistance of the on button again. If it appears, you can try to assemble and turn on the kettle. If it helped, we consider ourselves lucky. If not, you will have to disassemble the kettle further.

It happens that the contact group has melted, then it is necessary to replace the button completely. It is difficult to find exactly the right size. So, most likely, creative ingenuity will have to be included.

Repair of the stand of the electric kettle

The reason for a malfunctioning electric kettle can be hidden in the stand. There is no reason to break down there. There is only a contact group and outputs from it, to which the electric cord is connected. All that can break here is that the wire falls off or the contact point oxidizes.

In most kettles, the wires from the cord are not soldered. The contact is achieved with the help of copper contact connectors, which put on the terminals of the contact group. Carefully examine, pull well. If there is an oxide film (it is dark) or burnt areas, remove everything, clean it to a clean and smooth metal.

If the contacts are clean, but “move”, remove them, press them with pliers and insert them into place. If the kettle is no longer under warranty, the contacts can be soldered for reliability.

It is also worth looking carefully at the contact group. Despite the fact that they are similar, their device may be different.

There are movable contacts located between cylindrical plastic protrusions. When pressed (with a toothpick, the end of a screwdriver, etc.), the contacts should go down smoothly. After removing the effort, they should return to their original position. Perhaps the oxide film or other impurities prevent the contact from moving, so the kettle does not work.

The second type of contact is with a pin in the center. There are usually fewer problems with him, but we look here as well. Little can happen.

In any case, we check the presence of a dark film. This is an oxide scale that works as a dielectric, making the contact worse. We remove dirt and plaque during repair.

Repair of the indication of inclusion and illumination

For ease of use, the kettles have a power-on indicator. It can be made on the basis of a neon lamp or an LED. And it can also be equipped with illumination. At the same time, the indicator can be combined with illumination.

The indication allows you to determine whether the kettle is properly installed on the stand or plugged into the outlet. In addition, performs certain diagnostics. After all, if the light is on, but the water is not heated, this indicates a bad contact or a malfunction of the heater.

Indicator of turning on the electric kettle

The power-on indicator can be a neon light or an LED connected to the terminals of the heater. The light bulb is usually turned on through a current-limiting resistor of about 200 kΩ. Malfunctions are extremely rare, and usually it is a break in the conductors. The bulb is checked by replacement, and the resistor by a tester.

When using an LED, a rectifier (diode) and a current-limiting resistor are used. All together form the so-called driver. Details are checked by the tester.

LED lighting

LEDs are chosen for illumination, as they have a high brightness of light. Neon is not suitable. As with the display, power is provided by the driver.

Breakdowns are rare, but the weak link here is the LED.

Leak repair

Here, each case is individual, for example, you cannot repair a crack in the case, and the repair is impractical. The current will appear again. But at the junction of the metal bottom of the disc with the bulb, you can cover the leakage points with silicone only superficially, and the flow will start in a new place.

In this case, it is best to disassemble the kettle completely and separate the flask. It is good to clean everything and connect it by applying silicone sealant. You can use a special, safe sealant like RTV118Q. They withstand temperatures up to 260 °C, but they are expensive. An ordinary inexpensive one that can withstand temperatures up to 180°C will also do.

Just in case, after the repair, boil the kettle several times to remove possible harmful substances.

How to repair an electric kettle